Poly Haze

All to often a contractor, homeowner, manufacturer or re seller will contact our company to assess and define the reason a problem of polymeric haze exists on a paver application. All of em want to know what happened, why and who is responsible. This becomes challenging as the installer including DIY homeowners claim it was a bad product and for some reason the manufacturer and or re seller is expected to accept the burden. This gets really old. Now with this pre-determined attitude a barrier has been established without rhyme or reason, that even with my information and expertise may not be undone. This also gets old.

Chemical and organic binders in polymeric sands are easy to understand, as well the graded sand each contain. Activating polymeric sands are also a basic discipline to master. Did your contractor know the difference between the two and how each applies, consolidates and activates ? Did your contractor understand the variables involved including air and substrate temperatures, dew point/ humidity, sunlight or shade, wind speeds or the type of joint/paver being filled. 

Buying a bag of stuff, putting it down and watering it in does not constitute due diligence to the discipline needed to achieve a proper application which is the installers burden to provide. Even reading the directions twice means nothing when using a product such as polymeric sand, no matter the manufacturer or re seller. So please drop the "it's someone else's fault" pitch, I am not buying it.

So what now? After I gather enough information I can tell you exactly what happened and why,  then explaining your options including the possible re actions both good and bad. The stumbling point now becomes your acceptability of possible consequences in poly haze removals. 

While I understand poly haze is upsetting, it simply "is what it is" to me when entering the scene afterwards. I wish not give fault to any parties involved yet it is generally an installer error. 

Cleaning

A variety of methods can be used to clean pavers. A leaf blower can remove leaves and grass clippings. A garden hose with spray nozzle can remove surface dirt. A stiff brush and a lot of elbow grease followed by the hose and spray nozzle can remove even more dirt. And homeowners can include a variety of cleaners. Hedberg Landscape and Masonry Supplies have 3 metro locations where you can find a full line of do it yourself spot and general cleaners available.  

What about the pressure washer? Most pressure washers available at the home improvement stores are over powered and under fed, resulting in pressures that can strip the Cream Coat off of new pavers and old. Finishing concrete and during the manufacture of pavers a Cream Coat forms on the top surface. The surface you see (including the color) hides what is below and that's a lot of small rocks (and not that much color).

The Paver Doctor recommends the use of hot water (160 degrees) low pressure (300-600 PSI) and high water volume (5-8 GPM) to clean pavers. Cleaners need proper dwell, agitation and rinse. The applications must be worked in two different directions. Glass, wood or metal siding, veneer stone or brick and stucco must be protected from acids based cleaners. Consideration of run off into planting beds, lawn and ultimately watersheds will direct what chemicals can be used. 

The key to cleaning stains is to do it quickly after it happens. Reactive  measures are much more successful when a proactive approach is taken. A sealant application will reduce stain absorption. Sealants are designed to prevent the penetration of contaminants including dust, dirt, oil that dull the colors of pavers. Regular maintenance cleanings become quick, easy and much less intrusive to the colorful Cream Coat.

Dirty soiled pavers are both an appearance issue and can affect the integrity of the paver by holding onto moisture which during freeze thaw periods can lead to spalling. Feel free to call The Paver Doctor to assess this or any other issues related to your pavers! We specialize in paver Repair-Restoration-Sealing.

Joint Sand

Joint sand is responsible for the vertical interlock of a paving system. High slope areas, water run off, wind and aggressive cleaning can result in erosion of joint sands. Joints should be filled to the bottom of the chamfer or in the case of tumbled pavers 1/8" from the top. Substantial loss of joint sand could result in a loss of vertical interlock affecting structural performance.

Not all joint sands are created equal. Both fine and course Mason sand contains rounded aggregates that tend to wash out (being replaced by dirts). They do not lock together as sands with symmetrical particles. The angular or symmetrical sands take much longer to consolidate in tight paver joints which is why most contractors neglect to use them. 

The picture to the left shows: (from left to right are) Fine Masons Sand, Course Granite Sand and a 50-50 mixture of both. With the addition of the angular Granite Sand, joints tend to stay consolidated longer and in many cases mixing custom blends of joint sands can achieve colors that highlight the colors of the pavers used in the project. 

If you are interested in more information or would like The Paver Doctor to blend a custom joint sand for you please call. We specialize in paver Repair-Restoration-sealing.

Efflorescence

Most every new paver application has Efflorescence. It can appear as a white stain-see picture below, or a white powder on the top of the paver. Simply said it is a natural occurrence of curing concrete. Technically, curing concrete contains Calcium Oxide and when mixed with water this forms Calcium Hydroxide and when mixed with air becomes Calcium Carbonate, AKA Efflorescence. On a new application it is termed Primary Efflorescence and when it continues we call it Secondary Efflorescence.

The Paver Doctors advises to let Efflorescence run its course on new applications. Sometime within a year from installation, through a process called weather, Efflorescence production will be exhausted. At that time after a cleaning to remove the remaining residue is done you will be free of Efflorescence! 

In specific situations, Efflorescence may need to be removed. With many acids readily available to consumers, I would only suggest one for homeowner use. It contains 16% Solfamic acid which will not damage concrete if used incorrectly. You can find it at Hedberg Landscape and Masonry Supplies (3 Metro locations) and sold under the SRW Products brand.

In some instances Secondary Efflorescence can reappear for longer periods than a year. Cleaning and then sealing the pavers will help two fold. First it will reduce the amount of water entering the paver and also create a resistance forcing any Secondary Efflorescence Blooms to the sides and bottoms of the paver.

Efflorescence is an issue of appearance and will not affect the integrity of the paver. Feel free to call on The Paver Doctor to assess this or any issues related to your Pavers! We specialize in paver Repair-Restoration-Sealing.